Tips on Taking photos in Low-Light / How to Stop taking Blurry Photos
Low-light photography is all about
trade-offs. No matter how high-end and expensive your camera, low
light still presents a challenge. The main problems are un-intentional
"blurring" due to low shutter speeds and under-exposed images due to lack of
light (or over-exposed and washed out colour due to use of the flash). The
bigger the zoom on your camera, the greater will be the challenge in low light.
Here are some ways to deal with the challenges of low-light
photography. [Equally, these tips apply to problems with blurry photos in any
lighting conditions.]
1. Use a camera Tripod
Shooting in low light
generally means shooting at slower shutter speeds. For sharp results, use a
camera support. A tripod is the best camera support, but anything that helps
steady the camera—a monopod, edge of a chair, a handy wall or tree branch,
etc.—will give you sharper photos of stationary subjects.
2. Use the camera's scene modes
Many digital
cameras come with scene modes such as "night scene", "night portrait" and
"fireworks" or similiar. These settings automatically lower the shutter
speed, adjust the ISO up and increase the aperature. Read your manual and
experiment. With "city lights" you can use a tripod and very slow shutter speeds
- and a lot of variations. With "night portrait" your flash comes into play,
and using the old-fashioned through-the-camera viewfinder (rather
than LCD) can also be handy.
3. Use your camera flash
Use your inbuilt flash for
"night portrait" situations. Know the limitations of your flash - usually a
range of a couple of meters. If your camera has a hotshoe for an
external flash unit, it is well worth the expense if you want to take photos at
parties after dark. With a flash unit that swivels, you can bounce the light off
walls and ceilings to get more natural lighting effects on your subjects (and
avoid the "stunned mullet" look of your subjects). If you can, avoid shooting
under fluro lights as everything ends up with a green tinge (or check
your white balance settings to offset fluro lights).
4. Use a Camera with Image
Stabilisation
If you use a camera with a large zoom (say
8X-12X), a built-in image-stabilisation system is very helpful (Canon's are
designated "IS," such as the Canon Powershot S2 IS, and Panasonic FZ-5 and FZ-20
have image stabilization). Using such a camera will let you get sharp hand-held
shots 2–3 shutter speeds slower than is possible with conventional lenses of the
same focal length.
5. Check your photos as you go
The GREAT advantage
of digital, you can playblack your photos and re-take if they are "no good". It
sounds obvious, check for blurry photos, as no amount of photo editing can fix
this. Adjust what you are doing, insist on more light in the room so you
can increase your shutter speed, ask your subjects to "hold/ smile", and
steady your hand on a support.
6. Increase the ISO setting (if your camera
allows)
This will allow you to shoot at higher shutter speeds, reducing the
effects of blurring. The ISO 400 setting lets you shoot two shutter speeds
faster than you could at ISO 100 setting. Experiment.
7. Adjust your shutter speed (if your camera
allows)
Lower the shutter speed in low light at the same time as avoiding any
blurring. Read your manual and experiment.
8. Bracket Exposures
Many cameras have built-in
automatic exposure bracketing, which makes this very easy to do, but it's not
all that difficult to do manually, either. And if you've gone digital, you don't
even have to pay extra for those extra frames.Dim lighting and contrasty
lighting can fool an in-camera exposure meter, and low-light shooting
encompasses both. To be safe, it's a good idea to bracket exposures: Take one
shot at the exposure you think is correct, then shoot additional frames, giving
more and less exposure than that. That way, you should get at least one "good
one."
9. Photo editing
When you get back home, you may
be able to rescue shots that appear too light or too dark using photo editing software (for example, by adjusting light,
contrast, saturation) and you can also correct for any "red eye" in
photos taken using a flash. Blurry photos? Click for free software
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